UMUZUNGU

I expected this, but I didn’t realize how annoying it would be: In Rwanda, I’m white. I might as well be Swedish, it doesn’t matter.

The first word I learned in kinyarwanda was Umuzungu – “White person”!

I hear it dozens of times a day walking the streets: sometimes as taunts, or from merchants trying to get my attention, from curious kids who’ve never been so close to one, they’ll run to shake my hand, touch my leg or clothes.

Clearly, something had to be done. So the second and third words I learned, over drinks with some Rwandan friends on Friday night: Oya, Umyarabu! - No, an Arab person!

Laugh as you will, being an Arab comes with enough burdens elsewhere. I don’t need to add a colonial legacy to it all.

Next step:

“No, Palestinian person!” ….. How do you say “Occupation”?